I will say it is my fault for not checking ALL THE FUSES. You'd think it would be right up there with ECM/main relay/ ect. I am also at complete loss as to why NOBODY on any forum/video/ect ever specified to look at this particular fuse when having a no spark/no fuel condition. Why in the world a 10 AMP "ENGINE" (labeled) fuse would be in that spot, and why in the world a 10AMP fuse would prevent SPARK + FUEL is so far beyond me I will never understand how a less than $1 part can bring down an entire car and prevent it from doing the very basics it is required to do in order to start. THE ANSWER IS A $1.00 10A FUSE INSIDE THE CAR below the steering wheel to the left side. Instead we all take the same route that has been discussed in so many threads like this one. to this day I still don't know the order in which the problems occurred.ĭuring the diagnostics of this issue everyone repeatedly said "check fuses" but when you have 25-40 fuses to check most people don't check them all, and many people like myself don't bother checking the lower end fuses that are right next to 'rear defrost', 'radio', 'wipers' ect when you have a no spark, no fuel condition. There were some very weird issues that happened and its impossible to now tell which could have been related to the root cause of the problem. I took me almost 3 weeks to solve this problem. Here is the ANSWER/SOLVED - Mazda protege will not start If you can get a scanner, then you might not want to do this just yet until you connect the scanner, as it will clear codes that might be helpful in finding the problem. Wipe its memory to ensure it's not hanging on something. If you haven't done it already, then you might try disconnecting the negative batt terminal for like 10 minutes (give time for all residual voltage to drain from capacitors and such) to give the engine a full reset. anything? If a scanner can't establish comms with the PCM when the key is in the ON position, then that's invariably bad PCM. So if the dash is getting a bogus signal (super hot temperature, in this case) when the engine hasn't run in a while, then the PCM is definitely giving it a bogus signal, and that means PCM trouble.ĭo you have a way to connect an OBD2 scanner to it to see if there are codes? rent one from an auto parts store, borrow one from a friend. The PCM then sends that signal to the dash. the coolant temperature sensor signal goes directly to the PCM. If none of that is happening, then it's possible that it's because the PCM isn't doing its job.Ģ) Here's the kicker. I say this for two reasons:ġ) the PCM not only turns the fuel pump on, but it also controls all aspects of both injection and spark. Honestly, at this point, I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the PCM(ECU) is somehow dead. I just deleted a paragraph i was writing on how to go about troubleshooting that the relay is getting power, and that the fuel pump itself is good by applying power directly at the pump, but it's really impossible to walk though the needed troubleshooting in a forum post. If you get that working, and your car starts, then you're good to go!ĭo you have a factory service manual? It's got the wiring diagrams, troubleshooting steps, harness pinouts (for reference) and other good stuff like that. Why? because there aren't nearly as many factors that control whether your fuel pump turns on. Your lack of fuel pressure is your main concern. At this point, I wouldn't worry about the spark plugs just yet. try some of that and let us know what you find. The ECU should still give the OK to start with a bad temp sensor-will most likely give a check engine light, though. try unplugging the engine coolant outlet water temperature sensor (this is the one that tells the computer how hot the engine is). If the temp gauge is always at hot, even after hours of not driving, then the sensor could be bad. bad relay (try switching it out for something less useful, like the A/C relay, if they're the same) faulty wiring (shorting to ground, which would cause a blown fuse) no prime pulse signal from the ECU (could be back to the 'bad ECU' idea above) So you put the key in and turned it to "on"? Did you wait and listen for the fuel pump prime pulse before starting to crank? What have you done to determine that the fuel pump is not getting electricity? cam position sensor is bad (the sensor is on the left side of the valve cover on the 2.0L) otherwise it won't spark even if it's good. did you check more than one plug? Make sure that you hold the spark plug against the engine block or a good ground when checking. I would not just to this conclusion unless it was only 1 coil that wasn't sparking. Without looking at ECU flowcharts (you'd have to work for Mazda to get them), I don't think that the temp gauge pegged at hot would stop the car from starting. This can be one of the most frustrating problems to diagnose.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |